Pacifica REVIEWS

By TAMMY JAXTHEIMER, The Virginian-Pilot © May 21, 2007

I FONDLY RECALL my first visit to a "Little Bar Bistro." It was Crackers on Norfolk's West 21st Street. Tapas-noshing, long popular abroad, was embraced locally.

Little Bar Bistro, LLC, is owned by father and son, Bob and Chris Glover. Today they are four restaurants strong, including Pacifica on 40th Street and Pacific Avenue in Virginia Beach.

Outside, the bistro is marked by two flaming gas torches and a designated parking lot, which makes it attractive during the busy tourist season. Inside are parquet floors, well-spaced tables, a chalkboard wall of additions and tablecloths covered in butcher paper.

We were greeted by the bartender, who told us to sit wherever we'd like. Pacifica, as well as the other Little Bar Bistros, doesn't accept table reservations. The bar appeared to be the type where they remember your name.

We decided to test out the inviting settee by the fireplace to have a beverage and peruse the menu.

"Cold" and "Hot" headings divide the menu of tapas offered. The menu says you can add $10 to most any tapa to make it an entree with bread, a house salad and a side of the chef's choice. After receiving prompt and friendly service at the settee, we staked a table by the window, where we were again pleased with the service.

From more than a dozen cold tapas we took to the tuna tartare ($8), seaweed salad ($4) and smoked fish salad ($5). Tender cubes of fresh tuna were accompanied by cucumber slice, a dollop of seaweed salad, wasabi and pickled ginger. Luckily, the seaweed salad was a well-balanced rendition; we were pleased we had ordered some, not knowing it would be served with the tuna.

Confirming that the smoked fish salad ($5) was prepared in house, we gave it a try. It turned out to be our least preferred because of its firm- textured morsels - as if it saw too much smoke time.

When we ordered the chalkboard addition of fried oysters ($8) with spicy aioli, we received unrelenting approval from our self-proclaimed "foodie" server. He had already reserved an order for himself. Although the oysters were served in varying sizes, each and every bivalve was succulent and crisp.

We then asked our trustworthy server whether we should order the tempura fried lobster risotto ($9) or the crab cake with sage butter ($10). Both are good, he said, but added that the lobster preparation was unique. It proved to be another excellent endorsement. Lightly fried lobster atop perfect risotto was buttery and luscious.

Chicken pibil ($5), Argentina-style barbecue, delivered shredded chicken in a thin, mild red sauce served with grilled pita triangles. I found it in need of more seasoning to bring out its flavor. It might have shown better had it not followed the delicious oyster and lobster dishes.

New York strip with roast vegetables and demi glace ($9) was pan-seared to our requested medium rare and the demi had a depth of flavor. Accompanying roasted potato and asparagus were good, but the baby carrot was like nature's candy.

With the sweet carrot as one of our final tastes, we refrained from dessert offerings, which included a s'mores pu pu platter and strawberry shortcake.

By then it was 9 p.m., the time smokers are allowed to light up. With the transition, the sounds of Led Zepplin and Deep Purple were pumped up, which was too much for us after our relaxing dinner.

Don't be fooled by tapas pricing. Tapas done right titillate taste buds, taking "tasting" to new proportions - payment included.

Pacifica's menu cover reads, "Eat, Drink, Repeat." With apparently appropriately priced tapas and reasonably priced beverages, as well as its out-of-the-ordinary brew list, it's not difficult to repeat.

My latest Little Bar Bistro experience at Pacifica lived up to what I've come to expect from the Glovers.

# Reach Tammy Jaxtheimer at flavor@pilotonline.com. To rate area restaurants online yourself, click www.hamptonroads.com/dining/.